Dalhousie – A Colonial Experience In The Primeval Grandeur Of Himachal Pradesh!


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Nestled among the lower ranges of the Himalayas known by the name of Dhauladhar, facing the majestic PirPanjal ranges, away from the maddening lives of the city and its dwellers is a majestic hill station in Himachal which boasts of a rich colonial heritage and fascinating stories. This small, sleepy and sluggish town may not be able to compete with its famous counterparts like Shimla or Manali, yet it has an unexplainable and enchanting charm.

Dalhousie

Any Guesses?

This bijou of a hill station forested with Oak and Deodars all around is named after one of the youngest Governor General of India. Yes, you guessed it right! This quaint town is ‘Dalhousie’ which had been our home a couple of years back.

Dalhousie

Dalhousie Public School Campus

This Colonial town of Dalhousie has found a place among the rich and the educated lot of the surrounding states, who flock here during the weekends to meet their progeny and the Generation Next studying in the handful of Prestigious Educational Institutions (boarding schools) of the town like Sacred Heart Convent and Dalhousie Public School.

Dalhousie

Sacred Heart Convent

Beyond the Golden Hues

Dalhousie was a welcome escape for our family from the scorching heat of a nondescript border town in the heart of the Thar desert(our previous home for 2 years)!

I vividly remember the day in the month of September when after an exciting yet tedious drive of more than three hours from Pathankot, we finally reached our destination cocooned away amidst greenery. We landed in this picturesque town of Himachal just before the snowy and chilly winters, that would set in a couple of months.

Dalhousie

The very first shocker was the very narrow and serpentine roads of this place as compared to the wide and smooth as butter-roads of Rajasthan (and of course the severe bouts of motion sickness that I experienced for the very first time).But the excitement of a hill station stay for at least a couple of years, boosted and overshadowed the rest!

Dalhousie

Our First Glimpse

The first day went away in acclimatizing to the clime and altitude of the place but not before catching the fluffy clouds drifting away all the while kissing the pines and deodars.

Dalhousie

For the next one month or so, had to shuttle to and fro, down South. The month of November followed, and, we had finally managed to settle in our new home which looked like a cottage straight out of a fairy tale.Soon, we were busy setting up our new dwelling. However, the busy chore of unpacking things could not deter us from enjoying the amazing sunrises and sunsets of the mountains.

Dalhousie Sunset

Oh, I remember how I had crazily captured on my mobile, the ever-changing horizon at dusk for over a month, every day!

Daljhousie sunsets

Dalhousie

Long walks and treks became a part of our daily schedule during our stay in Dalhousie. The salubrious surroundings and the breathtaking views of the valley down below along the trail and the Colonial town of Dalhousie, in itself, made the walks all the more soothing and enjoyable. 

You may read about our trek to the Dainkund Peak here 

Dalhousie Dainkund Peak

Colonial Remnants

The British have left enough impressions in the form of Century-old churches, European styled cottages and homes with ornate doors and the unmissable colonial architecture scattered across the town.

Dalhousie

Many of these Colonial Cottages have now been converted into home-stays and hotels. 

Dalhousie

One can find old photos of Dalhousie and captures of the hill-station under the Imperial rule on the restaurant- walls of the ‘Grand View Hotel’, located near the Dalhousie Bus Stand. 

These colonial time photographs remind the tourists that the Britishers had once ruled this place and a diverse country like India. They plundered it, stripped away its wealth and built massive structures all the while reasoning that they shall rule forever without an iota of misgiving.

But then, Power is intoxicating to the extent that it can ruin the ones who are bestowed with it and one never knows when the door shuts on the powerful! Isn’t it?

Dalhousie

The Britishers themselves wouldn’t have thought that they will have to one day bow in front of the Indians. And then, leave the country owing to the resilient yet non-violent Indian freedom movement that is a landmark in the World History!Dalhousie

Shopping in Dalhousie

Unlike Shimla or other hill-stations, there are not many options for shopping here. And, I am glad it is this way! This the sole reason why there is a non-commercial look to the town.

Of course, you get basic necessities and yummy Maggi, Momos and Hot-Parathas. You may also like to shop for Himachali woollens in the GPO market, Tibetan Market and Subash Chowk. Remember, that, these are just a single lane with an array of shops and not very fanciful and huge ones like in Shimla or Mc-Leodganj!

When in Dalhousie, try to grab a few bottles of the Himachali Chuk and exotic wines!

Apart from the Classic style of everyday living, the sleepy town has an amusing quirkiness about itself, like the colourful yet laid-back mobile food joint that is usually found the near the GPO market.

Dalhousie

Tibetan Influence

There are many Tibetans who have made Dalhousie their abode and the Buddhist influence across the town cannot be missed. A dedicated Tibetan School for the children and the fluttering prayer flags across the Bakrota Hills convey the secular accommodating nature of the Himachalis and Indians in general. Bakrota hills look misty and heavenly during the rainy season which is from July end to September. And do not shudder when heavy thunderbolts hit the hills on a rainy day!

Dalhousie

A Misty and Rainy Day

By the way, the climate of Dalhousie is quite unpredictable so one can pretty much see people carrying umbrellas almost all the time as a back-up!

Dalhousie

Colourful mural paintings adorn the rocks of the Moti-Tibba hill on the stretches of the Gandhi Chowk Market.There are tiny shops arrayed on either side of the Tibetan Market – selling quirky trinkets, vibrant woollens, funky footwear and other Chinese goods nearby to the Dalhousie Post-Office!

Dalhousie

Colourful Buddhist Murals

Himachal Hues

Colonial or Tibetan influence though omnipresent, the hues of Himachal cannot be missed! Beautiful landscape complemented by deep valleys and fluffy white clouds floating around, tiny hamlets and their quintessential colourful homes with slated roofs, liberal use of wood in architecture, the intricately woven Himachali woollens, elaborate shawls, the sluggish atmosphere in going through everyday ordeals all add to the Himachali feel. Let us not forget the ancient temples that are revered by the mountain people that look not so ornate yet are beautiful and have a calming effect on people!

You may want to read my article on our trek to the famous Poloni Mata Temple here 

Dalhiousie

These valleys look beautiful just after the winters when the snow starts melting paving way to gurgling streams that gush through narrow crevices of the hills! The best time would be from March to April and then again during the rainy season.

Dalhousie

The hospitality and the real feel of Himachali town are witnessed as we descend the hills and venture into the narrow lanes of Sadar Bazar.

Dalhousie

One cannot but admire the way the people of Dalhousie have adapted to the space constraint and scarcity of water in the mountains. Indeed, walking is a fashion in these hills!!

Dalhousie

There is a ‘Saying’ nowadays in the mountains which when translated into English reads:‘The Youth and Water of the Mountains are never used for the benefit of the Mountains’ as both run away to the plains for greener pastures! Ironically, this is true.

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Dalhousie in Winters

Winters are ruthless, yet, comforting when in front of the fireplace! Watching the snowflakes gently glide towards the ground is a treat to the eyes. Dalhousie looks amazing the next morning after a snowfall,  and you are sure to conclude, that, maybe this is the paradise the scriptures talk about! Heavenly bliss!

Dalhousie

Although it is exciting to visit the mountains as an urban dweller from the plains, staying in the mountains and making a living, come with their own setbacks about which a traveller might be oblivious. The best way in which one can help the mountain people is to be a responsible tourist and traveller!

You may like to catch a glimpse of Dalhousie enveloped in this white blanket here

Best Season to Visit Dalhousie

Well, I have given a glimpse of Dalhousie in all seasons in this article. I personally find it beautiful and salubrious throughout the year. Still, if I have to emphasise on few special aspects of the months, then, here we go…

  • Plan a visit during the months of December-March if looking to experience the snow-fall.But remember, the winters are quite harsh here. (Do check up-to-date Weather report for signs of snowfall)
  • If you want to witness a town with fluttering butterflies and white daisies swaying in the breeze all around then April-June would be the best season.
  • You can experience the floating clouds, verdant green valleys, misty mornings, the sudden appearance of the Rainbows and gurgling streams from July onwards until September.
  • October and November are best for long treks and hikes and to catch the first snowfall of the season on the Lower Himalayan range and Dhauladhars.

Hope this photo tour helps you plan a visit to this beautiful town of Dalhousie in Himachal.Happy Landings! 🙂

Information on How to Reach Dalhousie, Where to Stay and What to visit can be read in the other posts of this series on Dalhousie.

 

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30 Responses

  1. Lovely pictures and narration. Dalhousie is a wonderful place and the colonial architecture, changing skyscapes and the verdant greens is charming.

  2. Wow! Thats quite a comprehensive post Meenakshi- you ahve covered so much about this little Hill station and all through every season!

  3. How incidental that I stumble upon this having just returned from Kalatop FRH!

    Beautiful narration and lovely captures.

    Shubham

  4. Kala Ravi says:

    A place I’ve always wanted to visit! You have captured some aspects that I have never heard of. The beautiful facades and architecture are something I can readily fall in love with. Interesting history.

  5. Oh this is so beautiful. I love reading about places and their history. I have traveled a lot all over the world but not really in India except where I lived. I hope some day I will get a chance to explore my own country. I know there is so much!! This is gorgeous.

  6. I have heard of Dalhousie, mostly from our time in himachal and from migrant workers in Goa who call it their home too. I had no idea what Dalhousie looked like! Again this is why we need to visit Himachal again, I feel as if I missed half the region! I think next time we will visit in September or end of August as it might be less touristy (?). We saw Himachal in may and June and most places were too crowded. Love the reference of smooth as butter Rajasthan roads, because that’s what I thought when we drove from Goa, over rajasthan to Himachal. The roads in the mountains are more adventurous. 🙂

    • Meenakshi J says:

      Thank you , Helene. Yes,Dalhousie like any other hill-station is crowded in May-June. September would be lovely with misty mornings and fluffy clouds.Do plan a visit.Happy to help 🙂

  7. Your photographs brought the beauty of the hill station of Dalhousie finely. The hill stations of the north are the best.

  8. Your stunning photographs are always a treat! This detailed travel post and helpful suggestions are the cherry on top. Loved the pics of the colonial bungalows.

  9. nikita says:

    Been here! Such a lovely place. The photos are great. Would be so nice if you checked out my Travel blog as well

  10. Atulmaharaj says:

    I still haven’t been there and your post makes me realise I should have done this while I was in Delhi.

    • Meenakshi J says:

      I am not surprised, Atul.Not many from Delhi actually visit Dalhousie.As I said in the post, it is not as vast a hill-station as Shimla or Manali and neither it is a shopping paradise.It is a rather quaint town with picturesque views for nature lovers 🙂 But do visit the place when you find the time!
      Will be happy to help you 🙂

  11. Rajlakshmi says:

    Loved this virtual tour of Dalhousie. This post has so much to offer. Loved reading about the architecture and the narrow lanes… The words presented a lively picture of a place I would like to visit oneday. Brilliantly written.

  12. Manisha Garg says:

    Travel posts give you a glimpse but staying there would help us know so many unknown facts about the place. Look forward to more posts

  13. A really good post, I thoroughly enjoyed it. Your description about the colonial heritage of Dalhousie is well thought out, and the writing is crisp and amazing. Keep writing! 😀

  14. Beautifully written blog post. I was transported to Dalhousie for a brief moment. I also learned a lot about the place and its history. Pls keep writing more of such posts. 🙂

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