Dalhousie to Dainkund: The Singing Hills of Himachal Pradesh

By Meenakshi J

I was composing a blog post on the mesmerising Bhool Bhulaiyya of Lucknow when I found myself thinking about a very different labyrinth — our walk from Dalhousie to Dainkund and back, across the Singing Hills of Chamba district in Himachal Pradesh, India.

The path through the woods was haphazard, brimming with the possibility of getting lost, and yet deeply satisfying once we reached our destination. Much like the maze of the Bara Imambara, the journey demanded attention, patience, and a willingness to trust the path.

Listen keenly as I take you on a virtual, musical walk across the Singing Hills of Dainkund. Sensitise yourself to the hardships faced by villagers in these mountains, so that when you visit, you look beyond the scenery. Walk with the forest paths, mingle with fluttering flies, dance with forest snakes, brush past the undergrowth, and let the wilderness work quietly on you, as I share memories from this exploration across Dainkund.

Where is Dainkund Peak located?

The mountains of Dainkund near Dalhousie, rising to about 2,755 metres in the Chamba district, are also known as the Singing Hills. A short drive from Dalhousie followed by an easy walk, and surrounded by dense deodar, pine, and oak forests, they sit on the outer ridge of the Pir Panjal range and offer sweeping views of the Chamba valley and the Dhauladhar mountains.

Why Dainkund is called the Singing Hills

They earn this name not through any supernatural lore, but because of the soundscape created when winds move through dense forests of pine, oak, and deodar. As the air passes through the trees, it produces a feeble yet melodious whistling — subtle, persistent, and deeply calming.

Trek from Dainkund to Dalhousie : knowing the terrain and its people

This leaf from my collection of travelogues comes from one of our picnics around Dalhousie, when we chanced upon a little-used path leading through the woods of the Dainkund hills.

During that weekend sojourn, as we wandered across the slopes, we stumbled upon a pebbled trail that led towards what appeared to be the only large concrete house visible from afar — perched precariously on the edge of a cliff.

A Shop on the cliff off Dainkund, and other stories

Upon approaching the house-like structure, we were relieved to find that it was an ‘all-in-one’ shop dishing out hot chai, parathas, yummylicious milk sweets, and also stocked grocery items. After ordering some Chai (Tea) we hit upon a conversation with the house owner. He introduced himself as Atma Ram and informed us that he has been living there for decades. Atma Ram’s shop alone caters to more than 35-40 villages scattered in the hills!

After some more exchange of stories and information, we were guided by Atma Ram to take the trail through the woods and reach Aala — a place that houses the Potato Development Farm and is en route Bakrota. Basically, he suggested us to opt for a path running across the Singing Hills, instead of taking the motorable road from Dainkund to Aala. This path is frequented by the people of the villages and is a shorter and faster route, and also perfect for a short trek from Dainkund to Dalhousie.

The walk to the peak : road conditions and distance

Most villagers from nearby regions climb the hills through treacherous forest trails across Dalhousie and the surrounding slopes to buy their day-to-day necessities, as many of these remote hamlets still lack proper road connectivity.

At regular intervals throughout the year, the Dalhousie Air Force Station conducts health camps in these villages, where a medical team attends to the healthcare needs of several hamlets at a time. One of these villages has also been adopted by the Indian Air Force. In cases of fire or medical emergencies, people from both Dalhousie and Dainkund often call the Air Force Station immediately — sometimes even before informing the local authorities — quietly reaffirming the trust and bond shared between the people of this region and the defence forces.

A walk through the Singing Hills: Views from Dainkund

Atma Ramji turned out to be a blessing. It was after this brief exchange that the walk felt less like a casual picnic and more like a passage through everyday mountain life.

Buzzing bees, occasional roars (or were they bears, snow leopards, or perhaps the witches of Dainkund said to inhabit these hills?), and dense greenery came together to form a perfect jungle setting. Beetles, ladybirds, innumerable insects, and wild blooms accompanied us along the way — each seemingly busy with their own daily errands, without much fuss.

There were times when I stopped, allowing the group to move ahead – to seep in the fresh, dewy, and moist smell of the woods. Stopped, while the cool breeze caressed my cheeks. Took breaks often, to look back at the path trudged. Because not every day will I get to spend so much time amidst nature, inhaling pure oxygen!

Snakes of the Singing Hills: Dainkund and Dalhousie

As we walked diligently along the trail, my eyes suddenly caught what looked unmistakably like the hood of a snake. Alerted, the men in our group asked us to stay put while they cautiously moved closer for what felt like a brief confrontation. Snake charmers? Perhaps not.

The laughter that followed was hearty — it turned out to be a plant after all. A quick Google search once we were back home revealed that it was a rare species known as the cobra lily, found in parts of Himachal and the Himalayan belt. So much for donning my Sherlock hat. Sigh.

Tall trees with massive trunks rose from the verdant greenery, straight out of the pages of Ruskin Bond’s stories and European literature.

Where the forests open towards Aala

Our path was lined with small budding flowers and wild berries that looked almost like strawberries. Everything around seemed to sway in quiet synchrony as the wind swept through, carrying with it an unmistakable hissing sound. Even the snake flowers joined in, swaying gently to the tune of their charmer — the wind, in this case.

Soon, as we neared Aala, the green hills of Bakrota came into view — once home to Rabindranath Tagore — along with glimpses of Moti Tibba, where Subhas Chandra Bose had stayed during his time here. These mountains lay under a vast blue sky, draped in mist that stretched softly from Dainkund down to Dalhousie.

There is a quieter Bengal connection to Dalhousie, shaped by writers, thinkers, and freedom fighters.

Reaching Aala

We were quietly thrilled to reach Aala — a realisation that set in only after glancing at the watch. While the downhill walk usually takes about 30–40 minutes (with the climb stretching to nearly an hour), we had taken well over that.

The blame rested squarely with me. I kept slowing down to capture the woods, the moments spent along the Singing Hills, and the many textures of this walk from Dalhousie to Dainkund and back. At different points, I found myself either lagging behind the group or wandering ahead, absorbed in my own explorations.

When is the best time to visit Dainkund

June is perhaps the best time to set out on treks in the Pir Panjal range. The mountains are dotted with endless clusters of white daisies, resembling a Milky Way spilled gently onto the earth. Butterflies flutter from bloom to bloom, often crowding the forests much like mosquitoes do in our cities — a contrast that stays with you, delicate and lively, and far removed from urban chaos. Dalhousie reveals very different moods across seasons. In winter, the same landscape settles into silence under fresh snowfall.

If you find yourself in the Singing Hills of Himachal Pradesh, ask locally for the walking route that begins near Aala and connects Dalhousie with Dainkund. It is a path shaped as much by everyday life as by landscape, offering a quieter way to experience these hills.

Dalhousie reveals different layers depending on how slowly you travel through it.

Thoughts on the Dainkund trek

Looking back, the walk between Dalhousie and Dainkund remains less about the destination and more about the moments gathered along the way — the people, the paths, and the quiet music of the hills.

There will be other journeys, but some walks stay longer than others...