Paoloni Mata Trek near Dalhousie: A Gentle Walk to Dainkund’s Singing Hills

By Meenakshi J

“Climb mountains not so the world can see you but because you can see the world.”

I love escaping into the wilderness of mountain ranges. The snow-capped landscapes of Himachal Pradesh are especially close to my heart. Their magnificence humbles me, reverberating with positive energy and drawing out the wanderer in me.

During our stay in Dalhousie, I found myself constantly looking for opportunities to explore lesser-known mountain trails. One such route leads to the revered Paoloni Mata (Goddess) temple—a walking trail for which the high meadows of Dainkund are especially known. The route offers expansive views of the snow-covered Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal ranges, and traces a natural divide between Himachal Pradesh and Punjab.

Located in the Chamba district of Himachal Pradesh, Dainkund is among the region’s highest viewpoints. The Paoloni Mata trail offers a way to experience this landscape slowly on foot—combining pilgrimage, open ridge lines, and long views across the mountains.

The Paoloni Mata Trail

The Paoloni Mata trail begins a short drive from Dalhousie, where travellers are usually dropped near the trailhead. From here, a walking route of roughly three kilometres (one way) unfolds. The path starts wide and slightly steep, with a few stone steps, before gradually flattening and narrowing as it winds upward.

The trail passes through dense woodland dominated by pine, oak, and deodar trees. During the monsoon months, small streams appear along the route, gurgling down the slopes and crossing narrow paths. In winter, these same mountains receive heavy snowfall, transforming the walk entirely.

Along the Ridge

Whenever we wandered in the mountains, we instinctively chose the paths used by locals—and this route rewards that choice. As the trail opens out along the ridge, the views become expansive. When the weather clears, dozens of hamlets scattered across distant hills come into view, appearing and disappearing as clouds lift and settle again.

There is a sense of elevation here—not just in altitude, but in perspective. The land opens out generously, offering glimpses far beyond the immediate slopes.

A Walk Through the Seasons

Between May and June, the mountainsides are dotted with white daisies and other wildflowers, colouring the green slopes. On clear days, the view stretches well beyond the hills, revealing the plains of Punjab below. From certain vantage points, the shimmering courses of the Beas, Ravi, and Chenab rivers can be seen threading their way across the landscape.

Each season alters the walk subtly through light, colour, and visibility, thus making repeat visits feel entirely different.

Clouds and Changing Skies

Clouds move swiftly across these high meadows, brushing past skin and horizons, alike. Sunlight appears and disappears in quick intervals, creating a shifting play of light and shadow akin to a peekaboo. Between June and September, this interplay becomes particularly dramatic, as clouds drift across the ridges, briefly obscuring the surrounding peaks before clearing again.

Pilgrims on the Trail

One of the advantages of walking in the hills is that fatigue rarely announces itself early, helped in part by the mountain air. Along the Paoloni Mata route, signboards encourage pilgrims to keep moving, gently reassuring them that the destination is close.

This trail is especially popular with devotees, who arrive in groups from nearby towns and distant villages. On festival days, the atmosphere becomes charged, with chants of Jai Mata Di echoing across the slopes and lending the walk a devotional rhythm.

As one approaches the hillock where the Goddess is believed to reside, flashes of saffron marking the temple area come into view. Set against grassy slopes and a wide blue sky, these colours stand out vividly, offering both encouragement and a sense of arrival.

At the Paoloni Mata Temple

Reaching the shrine of Paoloni Mata Temple brings a rush of emotion—relief, joy, and the satisfaction of completing the pilgrimage. The sight of the Goddess and the trishul silhouetted against the distant Dhauladhar Range is compelling enough to make many linger longer than planned.

Over the years, devotees have attempted to build a protective structure here, but strong winds have repeatedly undone these efforts. As a result, there is no enclosed temple—only the belief that the Goddess herself watches over the mountains and those who inhabit them.

Trishuls offered by devotees are placed near the shrine, and a narrow path behind the saffron-marked area opens out to sweeping mountain views. On clear days, one of the distant peaks is marked as Manimahesh—though, to be honest, many of the summits always look similar to me. Nevertheless, a small sign on the wall points out the Manimahesh viewpoint.

Respecting the Landscape

Close to the temple stands a striking statue of a Goddess adorned with a garland of skulls, positioned on a steep mountain slope. Locals strongly advise against climbing toward it. While there are no formal warning signs, respecting these boundaries is essential—both in honouring local belief and ensuring personal safety.

The openness of the landscape makes individual responsibility all the more important, particularly when it comes to leaving no trace behind.

A Place to Pause

Visits to Paoloni Mata have often doubled as family outings for us. Once prayers were offered, we would settle on the grassy slopes nearby, unpacking lunch and lingering longer than intended. These pauses—stretching out under open skies, children playing nearby, and adults surrendering briefly to the mountains, over the years, became as memorable as the walk itself.

Wildlife does inhabit these forests, so awareness is necessary, but the setting encourages slowing down rather than rushing back.

Planning the Walk to Paoloni Mata

Dalhousie makes a convenient base for the Paoloni Mata trek. The trailhead is a short drive away, and the walk itself can be comfortably completed as a half-day outing.

Weather in the mountains can change quickly, so sturdy walking shoes, a light daypack, and a compact rain layer are useful even outside the monsoon months.

Returning, Reluctantly

This is a walk we have returned to many times, so much so that the terrain now feels familiar. Each visit unfolds differently, shaped by weather, light, and company. We spend hours together, watching distant rivers on one side and mountain ridges on the other, finally leaving only when the sun begins its descent.

The Paoloni Mata trek remains a meaningful way to combine devotion, landscape, and shared time.

It is also a reminder of how faith, geography, and everyday life intersect naturally in the hills of India—an experience that stays with you long after the walk ends.