Lucknow, the city of Nawabs, is often remembered for its tehzeeb, Chikan work and leisurely evenings. But rising above its cultural charm stands one of India’s most fascinating architectural marvels — the Bada Imambara and its famed labyrinth, the Bhool Bhulaiya.
Built in 1784 by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, the Bada Imambara is not merely a religious complex. It is an engineering feat — a vast central hall constructed without supporting beams, crowned by a maze of interlocking passageways that continue to puzzle visitors even today.
Yet, beyond its monuments, there is an unhurried ease to Lucknow and its people — a certain nonchalance that felt instantly familiar to me as someone from Hyderabad.
I had the privilege of staying there for a couple of years. From gorging on piping hot samosas and maska bun at Sharma ji’s tea stall to devouring basket chaat at Royal Cafe and wandering through Hazratganj on winter evenings, the city grew on me gradually. And when the hunger for history struck, the Bada Imambara was never too far away.
On other weekends, we ventured farther — road trips to Ayodhya, Neemsar and Varanasi — each deepening our understanding of a region shaped by faith, power, patronage and conflict.
What Makes the Bada Imambara Labyrinth Unique?
Before we step into the maze, here are a few architectural facts that make the Bhool Bhulaiya far more than a curious tourist attraction:
- Built in 1784 by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula of Awadh
- Commissioned as part of a large-scale famine relief project
- Houses one of the largest arched halls in the world constructed without supporting beams
- Features over 1,000 interconnected passageways within its upper levels
- Designed strategically to distribute structural load above the massive central hall
Bada Imambara, Lucknow – An Architectural Photo Tour
With this context clarity in mind, let us step into the monument itself.
The Bada Imambara complex is far more than the famed Bhool Bhulaiya. It is a carefully conceived architectural ensemble — from its vast central hall and vaulted ceilings to its terraces, corridors and arched gateways.
And yet, before we begin exploring its spaces through photographs, there is one important clarification.
Prior to our visit, as a family we didn’t fully understand what an Imambara meant. It was only during the trip that its historical and cultural significance became clear. So let us first address two essential questions.
Note: Much of the historical context shared here was gathered during our visit through conversations with a guide and a local resident. And, later through research. The photographs were also taken nearly a decade ago with an older camera, so the resolution may not reflect today’s standards. I have also included a few recent images to appreciate the restoration work carried out over the years.
Is an Imambara a mosque?
No. An Imambara is not a mosque.
It is a congregation hall primarily used by the Shia community for commemorative ceremonies, especially during Muharram — the first month of the Islamic calendar.
While the month begins as the start of a new year, the tenth day, known as Ashura, marks the martyrdom of Imam Hussain, grandson of Prophet Muhammad, and is observed as a day of mourning.
Are the Lucknow Imambaras the only ones in India?
Again, no.
Imambaras exist in regions where Shia communities flourished historically.
Hyderabad, for instance, has the vibrant Badshahi Ashurkhana — an important Imambara. Murshidabad in West Bengal is home to the expansive Nizamat Imambara. Their presence reflects regional political and cultural histories.
Shia Culture in Lucknow — A Historical Context
While walking through the Bada Imambara, one cannot ignore how deeply Shia traditions are woven into the identity of Lucknow.
The Nawabs of Awadh, who built many of the city’s grand monuments including the Imambara, were Shia Muslims with roots tracing back to Persia (modern-day Iran). It was under their patronage that Lucknow emerged as one of the most prominent centres of Shia culture in India. Rituals during Muharram, the construction of Imambaras, and the refinement of poetry, etiquette and architecture — all flourished during this period.
Even today, Lucknow is considered one of the important hubs of Shia religious life in the country.
From time to time, events in West Asia — especially in Iran, which is a Shia-majority nation — evoke emotional responses among sections of the Shia community here. These reactions stem from shared religious identity rather than any political or administrative connection.
When Global Events Echo in Lucknow
In the past couple of days, parts of Lucknow have also witnessed protests and public gatherings following the reported killing of Iran’s Supreme Leader in recent airstrikes, a development that has dominated global news.
Soon, sections of the Shia community in the city came together to express grief and solidarity, especially in areas around old Lucknow and the Imambara precincts.
Times like these remind us that the Bada Imambara is located within a living city where history and contemporary global events sometimes overlap in very visible ways. For me, this event added another dimension to the Bada Imambara.
Interestingly, history also records that the grandfather of Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini, the first Supreme Leader of modern Iran, is believed to have originated from the Awadh region before his family later settled in Iran. It is one of those lesser-known historical threads that silently connect regions across centuries.
A Brief Historical Context of Lucknow
The origins of Lucknow are often traced back to the Ramayana era, when Lakshman, brother of Lord Rama of the Ikshvaku dynasty, is believed to have founded Lakshmanpuri along the banks of the Gomti.
A mound or fief, known as Lakshman Tila is traditionally associated with this legacy. During the Mughal period, a mosque was constructed there under the governorship of Sultan Ali during Aurangzeb’s reign, now locally known as the Tila Masjid.
While Aurangzeb remains a deeply debated figure in Indian history, particularly regarding his religious policies, the later Nawabs of Awadh shaped Lucknow in profoundly different ways.
If you are interested in how ancient Indian urban traditions travelled across regions, you may also want to read about the temples and ruins of Ayutthaya — believed to have been inspired by Ayodhya near Lucknow.
Who built the Bada Imambara complex at Lucknow?
The Bada Imambara complex of Lucknow comprises two levels of the Imambara, the Bhool Bhulaiya (a labyrinth of corridors in which people can easily lose their way), the Shahi Baoli (step-well), and a mosque. The entire complex was built under the patronage of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula, the Nawab of Awadh. Hence, the Bada Imambara is also known as the Asafi Imambara.
During the famine of 1785, Asaf-ud-Daula conceived the idea of constructing this expansive complex to provide employment to the people of Lucknow. It is believed that the Imambara took nearly 11 years to be completed.
There is also a rather curious story associated with its construction, as narrated by our guide. It is said that while labourers built the structure during the day, aristocrats — on the Nawab’s orders — dismantled portions of it by night, so that work could continue and more people could remain employed.
A somewhat illogical arrangement, if you ask me, but one that continues to be part of local lore.
Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula was also the ruler who shifted the capital of Awadh from Faizabad to Lucknow. The architect of the Bada Imambara complex was Kifayatullah, who is, interestingly, rumoured to have been related to the architect of the Taj Mahal.
A Guide to Understanding the Artistic Bada Imambara Complex
As mentioned earlier, the Bada Imambara complex comprises multiple sections, each serving a distinct purpose. From the Naubat Khana at the entrance to the Bhool Bhulaiya crowning the upper levels, every structure within the complex has its own significance.
The Architecture of the Bada Imambara
The Bada Imambara reflects strong Persian influences, which naturally link it to the broader Indo-Islamic and Mughal architectural vocabulary. Yet, it retains a unique identity of its own — notably lacking the typical minarets and prominent domes often associated with Mughal monuments.
Built entirely of Lakhauri bricks, the structure shares this construction technique with several other historic monuments across India, lending it both structural strength and aesthetic restraint.
I would also like to share a few fascinating architectural insights about the Bada Imambara that were explained to us by a local gentleman during our visit.
- There is no use of iron in reinforcing the structure of the Bada Imambara.
- The vast central hall is devoid of beams or supporting columns. The weight of the structure is distributed through its series of arched doorways, windows, and interlocking corridors.
- The monument features two levels of triple-arched entrances, adding both symmetry and structural stability.
If you are interested in historic brick architecture in India, you may also want to read about the 1000-year-old site of Gangaikondacholapuram, where burnt bricks used for construction have been excavated.
Dual Entrances to the Imambara Complex
The first and second gateways of the Imambara complex are sure to enthral architecture connoisseurs with their intricate engrailed and pointed arches, Rajasthani-style jharokhas, and delicate floral motifs.
Keen observers will also notice the official emblem of the Nawabs — the motif of twin fish — prominently displayed on each of the three arched entrances of the gateways.
The Main Building of the Bada Imambara
The main structure of the Bada Imambara rises three storeys high and stands on an elevated platform. There are seven arched doorways that usher visitors into the monument. These towering entrances offer a subtle preview of the scale and grandeur of the central hall within.
The main building comprises nine interconnected halls, with the central hall being the largest and most imposing of them all.
The Central Hall of the Imambara
The central hall on the ground floor is said to be adorned with stucco work embellishing its walls — constructed once again using Lakhauri bricks. The interiors are made from a mixture of lime and mortar, without the use of wood or metal reinforcement (as shared by our guide).
On either side of the central hall lie two adjoining spaces — the so-called Chinese Hall, with its saucer-shaped ceiling, and the Indian Hall, also known as the Kharbuza (melon) Hall.
Though I must confess — the “Chinese” ceiling, as described by our guide, didn’t quite look remotely Chinese to me. Nor did either hall seem particularly bound by the labels they have acquired over time!
A canopy marking the grave of Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula rests within the central hall, beneath an inverted boat-shaped ceiling. Interestingly, while the facade and exterior of the Imambara are strikingly grand, the interiors feel comparatively restrained.
The First Level of the Lucknow Bada Imambara
After climbing forty-four (or perhaps forty-five) steep steps, we reached the first level of the Imambara. From here, our guide led us through a series of narrow passages and demonstrated one of the most fascinating aspects of the structure — its acoustic design.
Even the faintest whisper seemed to travel across surprising distances. To illustrate this, he walked to the far end of the corridor, tore a piece of paper, and struck a matchstick. The sound of both actions carried clearly to where we stood, nearly 40–50 metres away.
At the time, however, the corridors were poorly lit and bore visible paan stains in several corners — something unfortunately common at many historic monuments across Indian cities. (A gentle reminder: this was back in 2010)
Bhool Bhulaiya of Lucknow
Next, we made our way into the Bhool Bhulaiya — a labyrinth of narrow corridors, interlocking walls, and identical passageways. Our guide confidently declared that it would be impossible for us to find our way out of this cryptic maze without assistance.
However, considering ourselves reasonably good navigators, we managed to locate an exit rather easily.
That said, one can imagine how effectively such a structure would have disoriented intruders in earlier times — which, perhaps, was one of the purposes behind its design. After all, the Bhool Bhulaiya is said to contain nearly 1,000 passageways, many of which lead to dead ends.
I would certainly recommend exploring it with a guide — unless you are particularly fond of zigzagging through identical corridors for longer than intended!
Why was the Bhool Bhulaiya Built?
The precise reason behind the construction of the Bhool Bhulaiya remains unclear.
Our guide suggested that the maze was designed to confuse intruders — and walking through its identical corridors, one can see how effective it might have been.
Beyond this, what is evident is that the labyrinth sits above the massive, beamless central hall that continues to intrigue visitors and scholars alike.
Some attribute strategic intent to its maze-like layout, while others see it as part of the monument’s structural planning. Definitive records explaining its original purpose, however, are limited.
The Rooftop of the Bhool Bhulaiya Labyrinth
After successfully navigating the maze, we were led to the flat rooftop of the Bada Imambara’s main building. It was here that I was reminded — unlike many Mughal monuments — this Imambara does not feature prominent domes.
From the rooftop, we could observe the intricate network of corridors below. Our guide informed us that the labyrinth consists of 489 identical doorways, and at that point, we simply took his word for it!
We were also told that some of the passages once connected to underground tunnels that supposedly led towards cities like Allahabad, Faizabad, and even Delhi. Today, these routes are sealed by the authorities.
Other Architectural Highlights Inside the Bada Imambara Complex
The Bhool Bhulaiya may steal the spotlight, but the Bada Imambara complex is far more expansive than its famous labyrinth. Several other structures within the premises add depth to its architectural narrative.
A Glimpse of the Asafi Mosque
The Asafi Mosque stands gracefully within the complex, approached by a long flight of linear steps. Its facade, with elegant arches and slender minarets, adds to the visual harmony of the entire Imambara precinct.
The mosque is not open to non-Muslims, so I could only admire it from the outside. But even from a distance, its symmetry and detailing make it an arresting sight.
A Little Trivia on the Asafi Mosque
The entrance steps of the mosque were used as a filming location for a memorable scene in the Sunny Deol starrer Gadar: Ek Prem Katha — a film that many Hindi cinema lovers would instantly recall.
Shahi Baoli of the Bada Imambara Complex
A baoli (or baouli) simply means a stepwell. The Shahi Baoli within the Bada Imambara complex once served as a primary source of drinking water during the Nawabi era. Today, it stands still — no longer in use, but rich with stories.
The structure is said to have seven levels, with three visible above ground and four submerged underwater. A staircase connects the different tiers. Our guide even mentioned that there was once a system to regulate or warm the water, though how exactly, remains unclear.
He also narrated a rather grim lore that one of the Dewans is believed to have taken his life here to safeguard the royal treasury. It certainly added an eerie undertone to the visit… though not quite as unsettling as our experience at the most haunted fort in India.
As it was getting dark inside the step-well of the Bada Imabara due to a cloudy evening, we bid a good-bye to our guide as well as the complex.
Practical information for planning a visit
- The Bada Imambara and its famed Bhool Bhulaiya are well worth a visit — whether you are drawn by history, architecture, or simply the thrill of navigating a centuries-old maze. And yes, the rooftop views of Lucknow are an added bonus.
- The best season to visit is during the monsoons or winters. Do brace yourself for long, serpentine queues during peak winter months, though.
- Entry into the Asafi Mosque is restricted for women.
- There are also updated dress codes and entry regulations in place from time to time. It is advisable to check the latest guidelines before planning your visit.
How to Reach the Bada Imambara in Lucknow
- Lucknow is well-connected to the rest of India by air, rail, and road.
- From the airport, it takes approximately 45 minutes to an hour by taxi or cab to reach the Bada Imambara complex, depending on traffic.
- From Charbagh Railway Station, the monument is about a 20-minute drive.
Imambara timings
The Bada Imambara is open throughout the week from 5 am-6 pm.
Explore Bada Imambara with a Guided Experience
If you prefer exploring heritage monuments with context and layered storytelling, a guided tour of the Bada Imambara can add far more depth to your visit. The labyrinth, architectural nuances, and Nawabi history are best understood with someone who can decode them for you.
You may consider booking:
- A guided tour of Bada Imambara and Bhool Bhulaiya
- A Lucknow heritage walk covering Rumi Darwaza, Imambara and old city, with a trip to Pilibhit Tiger Reserve
- A full-day cultural tour of Lucknow including Nawabi cuisine and monuments
These curated experiences can help you navigate the maze efficiently and uncover stories that you might otherwise miss.
(Affiliate links at no extra cost to you.)
End of the Bara Imambara tour
During our three-and-a-half years in Lucknow, we managed to visit the Bada Imambara just once — and even then, we spent barely three to four hours exploring the complex. It never felt enough.
With the renewed focus on tourism and heritage preservation in recent years, I am certain the monument must have undergone thoughtful restoration.
I look forward to returning to Lucknow soon — to wander once again through its labyrinths, courtyards, and quiet corridors.
I hope you enjoyed wandering through the Bada Imambara complex with me, especially its intriguing labyrinth, the Bhool Bhulaiya.
Thanks for sharing this wonderful blog. You have given very good information about Lucknow. Lucknow is a historical city of India. It is famous for its Nawabi beauty and culture.
is it true that you can be heard on other side of walls inside bhool bhulaiya?
Very beautifully written. It brought Lucknow alive in my eyes. Would love to visit the bara imam bara and chota imambara in the city of nawabs
Lucknow is a place that I really want to visit … have been to Hyderabad and loved it… You’ve captured the Imambara so well…
Much thanks Sabeeka :)
I loved seeing the pictures, I belong to Lucknow!
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Lucknow is on my must visit list. I had no idea that Imambara is NOT a mosque. Great pics, as usual :)
Our country is so full of rich heritage. I can relate to your love for Lucknow being from Hyderabad, since I also have my roots in Andhra.
Loved the photo tour. Never been to Lucknow, putting it on my to-visit list.
the Imambara, Bhoolbhulaiya were so wonderful in Lucknow, though i visited long time back. I also loved the food.
Lucknow – my home! Your post made me nostalgic. I could remember all my trips to Imambara. Do visit again. :)
The pictures are stunning.