A self-guided vegetarian food tour of Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi

self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk

Chandni Chowk and delectable food go hand in hand. And, a self-guided vegetarian food tour of Chandni Chowk with family, on a Sunday morning in Delhi winters, threw many surprises our way.

So, if you are looking for recommendations of food places, Chandni Chowk’s famous food, must try food and best places to eat in Chandni Chowk, you have come to the right place.

For, we have it all covered in this self-guided vegetarian food tour of ours.

Quick links to planning a Chandni Chowk food tour

Opt for our free-guided virtual tour, by reading this post further!

Combine your trip to Chandni Chowk with a guided walking tour of Old Delhi neighbourhood. And, even better, plan a day trip to the Taj Mahal

You might also want to choose one of the paid guided tours from the below list:

A food tour in Chandni Chowk by tuk-tuk [rickshaw]

Food tasting tour in Chandni Chowk on foot

Old Delhi Temples and Spiritual Sites Private 6-Hour Tour

3-4 Hour Old Delhi Heritage Walk Tour with Tuk Tuk Ride Wherever Required

Are you a book lover? Then, I suggest you tag along these books based on Delhi if interested. You can buy them instantly by clicking the links : Khushwant Singh’s Delhi through the Season , City Improbable – An Anthology of Writings on Delhi , Arvind Adiga’s The White Tiger and Anita Desai’s Clear Light of Day. Meanwhile, if you are looking for a simple breezy read to know Delhi’s history, then go for the illustrated The Historic City of Delhi

If you are looking for books on Indian history, then I highly recommend you read The Ocean of Churns , The Incredible History of India’s Geography, and, Land of the Seven Rivers: A Brief History of India’s Geography — all written by Sanjeev Sanyal

Note : I have not been compensated monetarily or in kind, to blog about this tour. This is just a humble attempt to help readers find eateries on a self-guided vegetarian food tour of Chandni Chowk.

This post may contain a few affiliate links. Read our affiliate policy for further information.

Food walk in Chandni Chowk

Come with me, as I take you on a virtual food trail through the wonderful culinary and cultural alleys in this part of old Delhi.

Moreover, why don’t you also check this ready reckoner on some popular street food you should try in India.

Nevertheless, on the course of this tour, you would stumble upon a plethora of recommendations — the best of food in Chandni Chowk, especially the lesser-known street food of old Delhi and Chandni Chowk.

A perfect free-of-cost Chandni Chowk food guide at your disposal, isn’t it?

A vegetarian food guide of Chandni Chowk

Mist engulfed us as we set foot on the almost empty lanes of Chandni Chowk in the early hours of Sunday.

The 400- year-old Chandni Chowk stretch was a rhapsody of vintage frames, divine flavours, mazy lanes, bygones dotted with bloodshed, ornate doors, and a cauldron of varied beliefs and faiths.

The just-washed portico in front of SisGanj Sahib Gurudwara glistened, by the shaft of rays that waded its way through a blanket of thick fog.

As a tonga passed by a beautifully intricate structure, I was instantly transported back to the lanes of Secunderabad around the Pot Market, where I often went with the family to pamper the taste buds.

Both Chandni Chowk and Secunderabad ooze with an old-world charm of bygones.

self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk

While in Delhi, I have never been comfortable walking on its streets, strolling the malls and for that matter interacting with people here. Although, personally I do not recollect any unpleasant incidents.

Yet, I have always had a love-hate relationship with Delhi.

But, my latest self-guided vegetarian food tour of Chandni Chowk on a Sunday morning, made me instantly fall in love with this old city of Shahjahanabad, the 7th-city to be added to make the present-day Delhi, during the Mughal times.

I had associated this part of Delhi with non-vegetarian food for long.

So, it was wonderful to discover a plethora of vegetarian food options in the lanes of Chandni Chowk.

Breakfast in Chandni Chowk- the famed vegetarian affair of an alley

On the Sunday that we visited, most of the shutters were rolled down in this commercial area as we made our way beyond the Fountain chowk. A blue board read ‘Paranthe Wali Gali’ and we felt as if our treasure hunt ended too soon.

Did it actually? Well, read on…

This was our first ever venture into Chandni Chowk. So, we cross-checked with a couple of others if it indeed was the famed lane that is frequented by celebrities.

Soon, with an affirmation, we meandered through a curved alley which was dirty and murky yet much cleaner than the basements of glittering malls!

A strong aroma of spices combined with a waft of boiled potatoes and a musty stench of the previous day’s litter made us realize that we were in the famed Paranthe Wali Gali — a cluster of 4-5 shops( all run by the relatives and cousins of Pt.Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan) dishing out piping hot paranthas with myriad stuffings.

Although, I had expected somewhat better environs for an eatery. Nevertheless, the insides of the shops were kept clean while the lanes were a bit messy.

The shop of Pt.Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan was our easiest choice, as it was the only one buzzing with people on a Sunday morning. Whereas, the other outlets were still getting their raw materials ready.

Grabbing a seat was a bit of a task, though, we were quite early. However, the toughest part was choosing what to eat.

For, they had umpteen choices and stuffings beyond imagination. And, some weird ones like Banana stuffed Paratha too!

self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
My nutty parantha!

Parathe Wali Gali Menu- A case of too many

We tried not to be adventurous and opted for the mutter-parantha and the dry fruits parantha, as this was just the first stop on our self-guided walking food tour of Chandni Chowk. After all, we had a plethora of vegetarian options yet to be tasted on this discovery tour of Chandni Chowk food.

Every order of paratha here comes with at least 4-5 accompaniments from varied chutneys to bhaji. The stuffed paranthas are (sadly) deep-fried in oil. Of course, this did not deter us from relishing the fare to the fullest.

I am not very fond of bananas, so could not fathom the imli (tamarind) chutney with banana chops in it. The sweetish pumpkin gravy was yum and so did the green chutney.

Tip: Do try their mutter parantha and dry-fruit parantha!

Cost : Rs.60 – Rs.70 per parantha

You may want to learn the recipe for preparing instant green mango pickle, the south-Indian way!
self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
A burst of varied flavours
self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
The Legendary Outlet

Places to visit in Chandni Chowk

Armed with a satisfied tummy, we headed out of the shop and took a left turn towards the Kinari Bazar to continue with our vegetarian food tour of Chandni Chowk.

The by-lanes and alleys lead into old palatial Havelis —many still occupied, a handful in a dilapidated state while a majority of them have been turned into warehouses.

But one aspect that binds them all was the charming old intricately carved wooden doors. Doors of every possible colour are to be found in these ginnels that branched out of Kinari Bazar.

Naughara Chandni Chowk: A food for thought

One such alley led us into the Naughara Haveli. A street of nine palatial mansions belonging to the Jain community. This lane was unlike the other alleys of Chandni Chowk. Adorned with yesteryear Havelis in row-house format and with its myriad doors and windows, it made us go silent with its brilliance.


In this fast-paced modern world with changing technology and a crunch for space, it’s become quite impossible to find such ancient residential spaces that ooze old-world charm, at least in urban clusters.

At the end of this lane is a Jain temple in white marble. I was reminded of the agraharams in TamilNadu, which has a mandatory Hindu temple at the far end of the street. This is what community living was all about until the colonials tried to create a rift by bringing the caste angle into Indian society.

Entry: Free

Furthermore, explore Naughara haveli as well as the Jama Masjid, as these are the two best places to visit when in Chandni Chowk. I will also cover the other must-visit places of Chandni Chowk in another write-up soon.

Meanwhile, you may also want to club your Chandni Chowk food tour with a visit to other historical places like the Red Fort, religious shrines, and other ancient mansions in and around Chandni Chowk on guided tours of Chandni Chowk.

So, here are a few ideas for guided tours of Chandni Chowk and other places of interest in this old part of Delhi. Although, I have not been part of these services, I thought of putting down these as suggestions here.

Best places to eat in Chandni Chowk

As mentioned earlier, the Jama Masjid at the other end of Chandni Chowk is a must-visit places while in old Delhi.

So, we took a break from our food walk, and explored the Jama Masjid, where we managed a crowd-free self-guided tour of the largest mosque in India. Later, we decided to double back towards the Kinari Bazar, and explore the other stretch of this bazar that leads to Maliwara and Nai Sadak.

Enroute, we did halt at Hazari Lal Jain Khurchan Wale to indulge in some Khurchan and Rabri.

Kurchan mystery: Devour on the scrapings

Hazari Lal Jain Khurchan Wale is popular for the sweets that they dish out, especially the Khurchan. Though this shop hardly has any space to stand, we made sure to eat our away till the last drop.

So, what is Kurchan?

Khurchan or Kurchan, is the leftover of boiled and reduced milk that is collected carefully.

In the making of the sweet dish called Khurchan, the top layer of thickened milk is assimilated and layered one above another, pressed a bit and the scrapings are added as the topmost layer, along with slivered pistachios. As sugar is added after making this dish, it imparts a gooey texture to the innermost layer while the top-most khurchan layer looks deceptively dry and particulate. It is so much like the the popular Kalakand sweet, yet different.

Delhi’s favourite sweet, Rabri, here at the Hazari Lal Jain Khurchan Wale is again divine, as bits of khurchan too gets added in it!

Trivia: A box of Kuurchan bought at Hazari Lal Jain Khurchan Wale was gifted by Late Shri. Atal Bihari Vajpayee (ex-Prime Minister of India) to his counterpart Nawaz Sharif from Pakistan, on the latter’s famous friendship bus-ride.

And, what was gifted in return by Pakistanis? The Kargil War!

self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk

Biting into crispy spicy Kachoris at Jung Bahadur Kachoriwala

A little further from the Hazari Lal Jain Khurchan Wale, is the famous Jung Bahadur Kachoriwala of Chandni Chowk.

Jung Bahadur Kachoriwala doles out crispy Kachoris from his hole-in-the-wall shop.

However, on the day of our food-tour, the accompaniment was too tangy and spicy even for a Hyderabadi like me who loves spicy food. While eating here, I suggest that you better avoid the chopped green chillies that comes as a supplement with the kachori, for a much pleasant and delectable experience.

Tip: The shop of Jung Bahadur Kachoriwala is short of space. We did again visit this place on a Saturday, when with the over-flowing sewage and constant vehicular traffic, we ended up with an unpleasant experience. So, I strongly reccomend getting the Kachoris packed as a take-away, and eat at ease later, if you are not visiting the place on a Sunday.

Cost: Rs.40 for a half plate (one kachori with aloo sabzi)

Chandni Chowk
Spicy and crispy Kachori (Source: Wikimedia Commons)

Tasting the indigenously baked eggless Indian cookies

A divine waft of freshly baked cookies pulled us towards it, as we were digging into the Kachoris at Jung Bahadur Kachoriwala.

And, we soon found ourselves in front of a push-cart vendor who was baking Nankhatai the indigenous way!

Nankhatai is indigenous to India, and is a modified version of the colonial cookies.

In the making of nankhatai — a crumbly mix of sooji ( coarse semolina), flour, sugar and leavening agents with a hint of cardamom is baked to perfection resulting in these delectable Indian cookies.

These Chandni Chowk Nankhatais were warm and soft without any frivolous add-ons…And, trust me when I say ‘no one can eat just one’.

Tip: Buy more than a dozen of the freshly baked ones always!

Cost: Rs. 40/- for 100gms

Additional Reading
self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk

You may want to pair up these cookies with a cup of hot chai (tea), brewed and prepared the Indian way from the various tea-stalls like the one below at Chandni Chowk.

self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk

A date with the rich cousin of Poori

Having got a dozen of the Nankhatais packed, we moved forward.

And, finding a crowd huddled around a corner shop, we craned our necks and peeked through the gathering.

To our surprise, a new batch of Bedmi-Poori had just arrived to be placed in a huge-colander. But, there was no name board to this outlet.

Yet, it was doing a brisk business for a Sunday morning. What’s in a name, isn’t it? Taste is everything!

Supposedly, the Chandni Chowk Bedmi-Poori are quite famous.

self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk

For the unversed, Bedmi Poori is a rich and heavy cousin of the usually puffed poori (deep-fried unleavened Indian bread).

With ground urad (black lentil) and some grounded spices added to the wheat flour in its making, it becomes a bit more flavoursome.

Often served with spicy aloo subzi (potato gravy), Bedmi Poori is the quintessential breakfast item of northern India.

While at this unnamed food joint, we bought just a plate of Bedmi Poori to taste and it seemed average.

Nothing extraordinary, as I have tasted better ones in the gullies of Varanasi.

So, do let me know if there is a better home for these in the gullies of Chandni Chowk, please?

Daulat ki Chaat: Rendezvous with an ancient richness

While at this unnamed outlet, my son and I were excited to spot bang opposite, a mobile kiosk of ‘Daulat ki Chaat’.

We knew about this unique ‘chaat’ through one of the food shows on television. However, the hubby was confused as to why his family members were excited upon seeing a push-cart!

Truth be told, I had completely forgotten to research the whereabouts of this dessert while planning this vegetarian food tour of Chandni Chowk.

And, through sheer coincidence, we chanced upon the winter speciality of ‘Daulat Ki Chaat‘.

For the uninitiated, this dessert is vegetarian India’s answer to the souffle!

Daulat ki Chaat recipe

Daulat ki Chaat is made from whisking cream and buffalo milk for hours together and assimilating the resultant froth.

This melt-in-your-mouth dessert is what “dreams of people on a keto diet are made of… “, if I may say.

Because it absolutely does not contain sugar, and still, tastes delicious and light!

Once assimilated, the fluffy froth is topped with saffron, slivered pistachio/almonds, and sometimes decorated with foils of edible silver.

It is said that the early morning dew is allowed to set on this snowy-white surface and that is what gives this dessert an ethereal taste.

I completely agree with this even if it is just a legend!

The richness of Daulat Ki Chaat gets enhanced when sprinkled with bhoora (castor sugar) and khoya flakes, just before being served.

So, if you want to avoid the sugar, you may very well inform the vendor before.

self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
The pure delight of froth
Daulat ki Chat
One of the best in the business
self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
Lest it melts away…

For Rs. 40/- per bowl, you may taste this tasty and fluffy bundle of clouds, aptly termed the Daulat ki Chaat, which leaves a rich taste and a wealth of gastronomic sensations that linger long after the dessert is savoured.

Let me remind you, that this dessert is available only during the winters in the allies of Chandni Chowk and parts of Old Delhi. You may find the same in parts of Uttar Pradesh by the name of Malai Makkan or Malaiyyo, again only during the winters.

Tip: Legend has that the buffalo milk is usually whisked under a full moon sky and the morning dew is allowed to set on the resulting froth. In modern times, with the availability of the refrigeration processes, I am sure the chillness factor is taken care of.

However, we did taste it twice : once in the early hours and later in the day (from a different vendor). And, trust me when I say that it tastes the best in the early hours, when there is still a nip in the air. So, the legend may still hold true!

self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
A palmful of clouds

Do not forget to shop at the glittery Kinari Bazar before heading out onto Nai Sarak!

Amritsari Lassi for all seasons

After savouring the bowl of cloud, we waded our way through the Nai Sarak, and strolled the rest of the stretch towards the Fatehpuri Masjid.

It is from the Fatehpuri Masjid that the area named Chandni Chowk spans until the Red Fort on the other end.

Located squarely at the corner of the row of shops near Fatehpuri Masjid is the Amritsari Lassi wala, who is quite famous for the variously flavoured lassis he churns out.

I am not a big fan of lassi. But then, the lassi here was not too sweetish and thus made me taste different flavours. Albeit, more than a spoonful.

However, the husband and son think otherwise. They prefer the Aggarwal Lassiwala in the Delhi Cantonment to this lassi!

While here, I overheard a food-walk leader standing nearby — giving his verdict ( read diktat) to a couple of foreign tourists that this supposedly is the best lassi in the whole of India.

The poor chap seemed to be obsessed with his Dilli for sure!

Tip: Taste the Kesar- Badam lassi.

Cost : Rs. 40 -Rs. 60

self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
A wholesome glass
self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk

Sink your teeth into the biggest paratha of Delhi

Having gulped the lassi, we strolled towards the Church Mission Road, bypassing the Khari Baoli.

Supposedly, Khari Baoli is the largest spice market in Asia, and most of the paid-guided tours do cover Khari Baoli.

However, we decided to give it a miss and restrict ourselves to the Church Mission Road.

While here, we halted at the famous Kake Di Hatti for our lunch ( do I hear you whispering under your breath, branding us as hoggers? ).

Like every other legendary eatery in this area, this too has been around for decades and seemed to be perpetually overcrowded.

And, we had to wait for at least 30 mins to gain entry to their upstairs seating.

But, trust me when I say that our lunch was worth the wait and the best on this vegetarian food tour of Chandni Chowk.

Unlike the parathas of the Parathen wali gali, the stuffed paratha and naan at Kake Di Hatti are not deep-fried but made the traditional way in tandoor (clay ovens) and allowed to be baked to perfection.

Also, one paratha/naan serves two people easily as they are as large as the huge thalis (traditional steel plates).

The Rajma and Jeera rice were again in huge quantity at Kake Di Hatti, and that is when we realized that this outlet believes in good customer service with top-class quality and quantity at reasonable prices.

And, this definitely is the USP of Kakke Di Hatti, which started its business way back in 1942.

Moreover, the owners have definitely retained the taste and quality transcending time.

Tip: Buy just one stuffed paratha(naan) first. Ask the waiters if not sure about the quantity.

self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
Amritsari Naan
self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
Delicious Rajma-Chawal
self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
The crumbling facade of Kake di Hatti

Sip on the rich and creamy heady mix at Giani di Hatti

Now, how could we not round up our scrumptious lunch at Kake di Hatti with some more dessert?

So, we ordered a rabri-faluda from Giani di Hatti —the next door neighbour of Kakke Di Hatti.

For the uninitiated, Rabri is thickened and sweetened milk, while Faluda is vermicelli noodles. Thus, Rabri-faluda is a combo dessert and quite rich in calories!

Giani di Hatti definitely serves one of the richest and the creamiest rabri-faluda in this old part of Delhi.

However, be conscious of the quantity while ordering, as one glass may seem too much for a single person to gobble!

Cost: Rs. 80 per glass

self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
An assortment of richness
self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk

Some more delicious finishers at Natraj Dahi Bhalla!

If you are not fond of the rabdi-faluda dessert, then, you may opt to dig into the dahi bhallas (fried lentil dumplings soaked in curds and served with spices and chutneys) at Natraj Dahi Bhalla Corner.

Later, take the lane adjacent to it and reach the Chandni Chowk Metro station to end this vegetarian food tour of Chandni Chowk.

But not before, you taste the totem…

So, read further!

natraj dahi bhalla on a self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
Natraj Chandni Chowk

Tasting the Totem at Old Jalebi Wala

Hot Jalebi is ubiquitous (especially in winters) across north-India.

It reaches a cult status during this season and is a totem for foodies like me.

I love jalebis in every possible form and taste : thin or thick, crispy or soggy, a bit sour or sweetish, with or without its famous accompaniment-Rabri and dunked or not dunked in hot creamy milk!

You should taste its cousin – the jaleba on a trip to Indore, like I did. They are of enormous size and tasty to the core.

The other sweet that I am fond of is the Mysore Pak of Tamil Nadu.

Okay, now since this post isn’t about my favourite food-list, let’s come back to the Old Jalebi Wala.

If you are a devotee of the crispy, coiled, and fried lentil batter steeped in sugary syrup Jalebis, then, you must taste the ones that this almost 150-year-old Old Jalebi Wala of Chandni Chowk dishes out : piping hot almost every other minute in winters.

The jalebi here is neither too sweet nor too sour , but just perfect with a divine smell of pure ghee (clarified butter).

A perfect and pure indulgence to end this vegetarian food tour of Chandi Chowk, isn’t it ?

Tip: Avoid rabri to savour the taste of the Jalebi. Opt for the mutter samosa (green-peas samosa) if you want to taste the samosas here. Although, I found the samosas a bit expensive !

Cost: Rs.50 for 100gm of Jalebi; Rs.25 for Matter Samosa

Juicy Jalebi (Source:Pixabay)
self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk
Adorned Rabri

Shop at Khari Baoli – Asia’s largest spice market

Remember to shop for spices and dry-fruits at Asia’s largest wholesale spice market – Khari Baoli, before you head out of the famed Chandni Chowk area of Old Delhi.

Also, you would find heaps of these nuts and dry-fruits stocked in a varied price range en route Kakke Di Hatti.

An apt way to end this vegetarian food tour of Chandni Chowk for sure, if you have time on hand!

self guided vegetarian tour of Chandni Chowk

Is this the end of the Chandni Chowk food tour?

This definitely is not a comprehensive post of vegetarian outlets in Chandni Chowk.

And, I am going to keep updating this post with the best street food in Chandni Chowk, as and when I try, test, and taste some more delicacies from the umpteen outlets tucked away in the alleys and ginnels of Old Delhi!

During multiple visits to Chandni Chowk food places, a burst of flavours, colours, texture, and recipes transcending generations is what I discovered (as any other connoisseur would) across this vintage place.

The many shades of breakfast and snacks, churned out religiously and skilfully, day after day, in unfathomable quantities, from these hole-in-the-wall food outlets are sure to pale out the ‘so-called-certified’ five-star gastronomic experts!

A map of food places to find best veg food in Chandni Chowk

You may follow the places, outlets, and routes as suggested in the map below.

Alternatively, you may also opt for varied food tours conducted by tour operators and individuals, as suggested below the map.

More often, these serpentine alleys may get overwhelming for first-timers to Delhi. Also, if you are looking to buy an Indian SIM card, then read this detailed guide to buying a SIM in India.

Dos and Don’ts in Chandni Chowk

  • Wear comfortable walking shoes on walking tours. You may have to walk for 2-3 hours depending on the pit-stops.
  • Always carry bottled water with you and avoid drinking water at food outlets.
  • Be cautious about your belongings while walking the crowded streets.
  • Better to dress conservatively while visiting the Jama Masjid and other religious places.
  • Since you would be sampling too many dishes on food tours, better to buy just half a plate wherever possible and opt to share.
  • Some of the dishes may be too spicy for non-Indians. Do carry some toffees and chocolates handy!

How to reach Chandni Chowk

  • The best way is to take the Delhi Metro and get down at Chandni Chowk Metro Station. Exit through Gate no.1 which is nearby to the fountain chowk.
  • Alternately, you may get down at the Red Fort metro station and catch one of the battery operated rickshaws, and ask them to drop you at the Paranthen Wali Gali or wherever you prefer to be dropped in Chandni Chowk.
  • These rickshaws charge Rs.10 or Rs.20/- per head depending on the distance of the drop.

Best season to visit Chandni Chowk

  • November to March is the best time to indulge in this vegetarian food tour of Chandni Chowk. Also the perfect season for sighting the Daulat Ki Chaat kiosks!

Try out these Chandni Chowk Food tours

While, mine is a free food-guide on where to find veg food in Chandni Chowk, there are a handful of paid food tours, as I mentioned before, which conduct food tours in Chandni Chowk.

As a first timer to Delhi, you might want to opt for these guided food tours in Chandni Chowk, as serpentine lanes and massive crowd here could get a bit overwhelming. Here are a few food tours in Chandni Chowk that I could find online.

Eat Like a Local: Chandni Chowk Street Food and Walking Tour

Old Delhi Street Food Tasting Tour

Old Delhi: Private Tour of Chandni Chowk food places in a Tuk Tuk

Also, should you wish to visit the Taj Mahal, do read these interesting facts about the Taj Mahal in my detailed write-up on this white wonder, and also check the below day-trip tour from Delhi.

Hope you find these reccos useful!

Lastly, I hope you enjoyed this virtual food walk across Chandni Chowk, as much as I enjoyed tasting the food at this beautiful place, and putting together this Chandni Chowk food-guide to help you — my readers.

With this in mind, do let me know your impressions and suggestions of places at Chandni Chowk in the comments section. Ciao!


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India | Asia | Delhi | Travel | Food | Vegetarian | Photography | . #travel #asia #indianfood #vegetarian #foodwalk #foodtour #incredibleindia #delhi

India | Asia | Delhi | Travel | Food | Vegetarian | Photography | . #travel #asia #indianfood #vegetarian #foodwalk #foodtour #incredibleindia #delhi

India | Asia | Delhi | Travel | Food | Vegetarian | Photography | . #travel #asia #indianfood #vegetarian #foodwalk #foodtour #incredibleindia #delhi


39 thoughts on “A self-guided vegetarian food tour of Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi”

  1. Very informative and well-written. I have lived in Delhi for about two years and have visited umpteen a number of times. But haven’t covered almost half of the places you’ve mentioned. However, I’m going with my two teenage kids this time for a week and experiencing Delhi the way tourists do.

  2. Honestly, I haven’t been able to appreciate the paratha of parathe wali gali. Maybe because I am Haryanvni and we don’t eat deep fried paratha.
    Chandani Chowk is a heaven for foodies, both vegs and non vegs. While I was living around Delhi before lockdown, I used to go there every now and then. Sometimes alone, sometimes with friends. Now sitting at home, all I have is to read these blogs and miss everything about this place.
    I can see the efforts and hard work you have put to create such a detailed, wonderful blog post.

      1. Parathewaali gali is vastly overrated. I recollect the first time I and my wife went to Kake di Hatti. We ordered 3 parathas assuming we should be able to polish 1.5 each and maybe order more later. Every one in the shop turned around and stared at us. The waiter asked if we were sure we want 3 parathas for the two of us and whether we were planning to pack part of it for home.

        1. Hahaha…. I can understand why the waiter and others stared at you. And, absolutely agree about PWG being highly overrated. I ‘vev mentioned the same in the write-up. Prefer Kake di Hatti :)

  3. Meenu I want to inform you that reading all this has made me feel a bit faint….from all that drooling! Tell me honestly that you compiled all this fabulous stuff over several outings and not one single trip! Too, too, too good this trail was! I have visited Chandni chowk just once but I feel ashamed to say I didn’t taste a single one of these delicacies. Bookmarking this awesome post for the next time I visit Delhi.

    1. Nope… lol..almost all the stuff was savoured on the same day *embarrassed*.We spaced it out from bkfst to evening chai and shared most of the stuff among the three of us. Do visit us, I shall take you around, Kala. Thanks for reading :)

  4. I think the key to delicious vegetarian food lies in the spices, and India has some of the best! I’ve had naan a lot in the U.S. and would love to try some authentic naan in India and compare it to what I’ve been eating here (I’m sure it’s a lot better in India even though I think the naan here is already really tasty!)

    Thanks for sharing this food tour guide – I’d love to wander the alleys and check out some of the sights while sampling delicious local delicacies.

    1. Haha..definitely do taste the naans here and I am sure you may find the ones back home, not-so-drool-worthy. And, yes…Indian food is what it is because of the spices! Much thanks for reading!

  5. I love Chandni Chowk and its scrumptious food. I have taken several food tours (guided and self-guided) over the years and can swear by all the places you mentioned above. While initially I loved visiting for paranthe waali galli and nagauri halwa, I now realise there are so many other smaller hidden gems. Now after reading your post, i am feeling hungry again for old Delhi.

  6. How I loved this post…For many reasons. The description, the pics and everything. Daulat ki chaat is known as Malai makhan in UP. I love it like anything.

  7. It’s been long that I have been to India. I am feeling hungry after looking at your post. I so want to eat Rajma-Chawal, Kachori, Parathas, and what not. I am a vegan, so I would avoid the foods with animal milk in it, but yes samosas and jalebis… So yummy! You have made me really hungry.

  8. It’s been a long time since I last visited Chandni Chown, I wish I had a food guide when we went. I’m particularly keen to try the Khurchan which I’ve never heard of before. I’d also love to try Daulat ki chaat and that rabri-faluda looks amazing.

  9. Reading this article at night 2 o clock, after being deprived on Indian street food for almost a month now, was such a big mistake! I am so hungry, and craving for aloo paratha, and khurchan and pyaaz kachori right now! You literally took me through chandni chowk in 5 mins and introduced me to stuff like dry fruits paratha (like seriously!) and Daulat ki Chaat (can’t wait to taste it!!). Loved the article thoroughly!

    1. Haha..not sure if I ought to be glad, for having tickled your taste-buds at that time of the night with my post! And, surely do try the dry-fruits parantha and Daulat ki Chaat. They are too scrumptious :)

  10. I know you said you didn’t like banana… but the banana imli chutney sounds pretty good, as does the pumpkin gravy! There is SO MUCH good looking food in this post. I especially like the tip on getting half plates while sharing so that you can taste more throughout the day. I never thought of that!

  11. Jane Dempster-Smith

    Thank you for the great article. I am a vegetarian and Indian cuisine is my favourite. Your article has helped me to identify more of Indian cuisine which I would like to try but not sure what it was. Thanks.

  12. This is interesting. I haven’t tried a vegetarian food tour yet but I guess it would be a unique experience. A friend once gave me these nankhatai and it’s really good.

    Thank you for sharing these tips especially the do’s and don’ts. Will keep them in mind.

  13. Meenu, I am coming to Delhi and you are taking me back there. I have been to Chandni Chowk many times during my stay in Delhi. Our first stop used to be Gurudwara SeesGanj Sahib and the satisfying the palate. Love all kind of chicken tikkas and Chole Kulche here. Lovely trip Meens.

  14. An adage says the diamond will be discovered under the heap of gutter materials. In the narrow lanes the buyers fulfill their hunger and seller survive yet another day to ward of the hunger of his Kith,kin! A heart filling story.

  15. For someone who has spent her childhood summer vacations in Delhi, this gourmet trip was a lovely nostalgic read:) while Paranthe wali gali is not what it used to be, it is certainly an experience in itself! Loveeee bedmi puris <3 nothing like a piping hot bedmi puri with aloo sabzi in winter :) Great read! loved the options!

  16. Wow! Despite being in Delhi for more than 6 years, I never had a chance to indulge in much talked about Chandni Chowk’s food tour. After reading your post and looking at your pictures, I’m craving to take one soon :)

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