The Karen Tribes of Chiang Mai: A Local Friendship over Candied Fruit Peel

By Meenakshi J

Are you looking for information on the Karen tribes of northern Thailand? Curious about who the Karen people are, where they live, and whether you might encounter them during a trip to Chiang Mai?

Then you have come to the right place.

In this write-up, I share a personal encounter that took place in a small Karen tribe market near Doi Inthanon in Chiang Mai, northern Thailand.

The Karen are one of the largest ethnic communities originally from neighbouring Burma (Myanmar). Yet, finding a sizeable Karen settlement in the mountains of Doi Inthanon near Chiang Mai during my journey through northern Thailand came as a surprise.

What began as a casual meeting with members of the Karen community soon turned into something far more meaningful.

And, this post is a small tribute to the Karen tribe in Chiang Mai and to the many women who navigate the journey of life with quiet resilience — across homes, villages and sometimes even refugee camps.

Each woman’s struggle may be different, yet the struggle is real. Often it stems from something as simple and as complex as being born a woman. Supporting each other with honesty and empathy perhaps remains the truest path towards empowerment.

Come along as I take you into the world of the Karen people in northern Thailand — their living conditions, forest-based livelihoods, the sub-communities within the Karen tribe, and the unexpected friendships that sometimes emerge along the way.

My First Encounter with the Karen Tribe in Chiang Mai

During a visit to a small roadside market run by the Karen tribe in the hills of Doi Inthanon near Chiang Mai, I had an unexpected encounter that stayed with me long after the journey ended.

“100 baht”, Phen repeats for the fourth time.

I smile, shrug and pursue, “Please give 3 for 200 baht. If I convert this to Indian Rupees it amounts to 400 ”.

I find the price a little steep for the small packet of candied fruit peels, though I dislike bargaining with these hardworking tribal communities.

I am bemused. I wonder if this lady with a long white V-neck tunic understood my explanation behind the haggling.

‘Are you from India? , she asks me. I nod affirmatively.

She proclaims, ‘I love Bollywood movies’ with a wide grin that reaches her stoic eyes. I am stumped yet I manage a half-hearted exclamation of ‘Wow!’

In this fleet of a moment, I wonder if it is a routine marketing technique being employed by her to thrust the agricultural products for her quoted price. But her eyes and smile are not in tandem with these skeptical thoughts of mine. They look genuine.

‘I love Shahrukh’, declares Phen and shocks me further!

You may also want to watch my video on the 25 things to do in and around Chiang Mai

The Karen People of Northern Thailand

I am unable to fathom that a remote region of Doi Inthanon in northern-Thailand, with a sparse population, has access to technology, and the last thing I expect is bollywood movies.

And above all, I am in a market of the Karen Tribe in Chiang Mai, who are refugees from Myanmar, settled in the bordered mountainous regions of Thailand.

Many of these Karen tribal settlements lack basic amenities like electricity, proper roads, and sanitation.

So, I move away from the candied fruit peels over to other products, take permission to click few snaps of children playing there, and enquire the rates of other items on display in the stalls under the thatched roofs.

I conclude that this Karen lady must have picked a few words from Indian tourists like me. And, she is using them to impress and strike a chord with me as a customer.

In hindsight, I also wonder if she shared with me this interesting piece about herself and her secret fascination for Shahrukh Khan, the most popular actor of the Indian Hindi Cinema, as I am a woman. Would she have shared this with others? I doubt…

Many Karen families in northern Thailand live in villages scattered across the mountainous areas around Chiang Mai and the Thai–Myanmar border.

A Friendship over Candied Fruit Peel

With these thoughts in mind, I slowly rummage through the mess in my handbag, pick out the mobile to open the photo gallery.

I confidently show the Karen lady a photo of my family with Shahrukh Khan. Her eyes brighten up and she squeaks in happiness having recognized him.

She enquires if I am related to Shahrukh and is a little disappointed when I respond negatively. Soon I strike a conversation and get to know her name. Phen keeps shifting her gaze from me to the photograph as if in a daze.

Phen then reveals that her brother is a stunt-man in the Hindi Bollywood industry, thus, squashing my ignorance and preconceived notions about her and the Karen Tribe in Thailand.

We exchange pleasantries and she cajoles me to give her bytes about Bollywood. She introduces me to her friends from the Karen tribe and informs them that I am an Indian.

I offer the crisp notes of the Thai Baht currency, in exchange for candied fruit peels at her quoted price with no words exchanged. Finally, we both click a snap together for keepsake!

And just before our car was to zoom away on the smooth as butter roads of the Doi-Inthanon mountain, Phen enquires,” Meenu, when are you coming again?”

I am overwhelmed with the guilt of having been judgmental and prejudiced towards a warm and friendly person like Phen and promise her, ‘I shall come back soon to meet you, Phen!”

History of the Karen people

The Karen are historically believed to have migrated from regions of Tibet and southern China thousands of years ago, eventually settling in the hilly areas of eastern Burma, now Myanmar.

Post colonization of Myanmar in 1886 and subsequent independence granted to it in 1948 deprived the settlers of their rights to hold their land.

Subsequent military regimes did no good to the Karen tribe and the other ethnic communities of Myanmar. This forced many Karens to flee Burma and seek refuge in neighbouring Thailand.

Some of them have subsequently migrated and moved to the United States, Australia, and Canada.

Religion and Beliefs of the Karen People

The Karen people like most hill tribes have been animists for centuries. However, the colonization of Burma forced many of them to convert to Christianity. Over the years, the Karen people have been identified to be followers of five main religions :

1. Animism
2. Buddhism
3. Christianity
4. Lehkai ( prohibits the consumption of meat and alcohol)
5. Telahkon

Where Do the Karen People Live in Thailand?

The highest mountain in Thailand, Doi Inthanon, is abundantly gifted with waterfalls, gurgling streams, lush fauna, and flora and is also home to many hill-tribes.

This mountain range which is nearby to Chiang Mai is actually the tapering end of the Himalayan ranges and is also the highest point of Thailand. The fleeing Karens settled in refugee camps in this hilly region of Northern Thailand.

Also, the Karen Tribe in Chiang Mai is by far the largest of the hill tribes in Thailand, representing about three thousand people and Doi Inthanon is home to many of them. These tribes are also largely concentrated in further North of Thailand, near the Myanmar border.

Many travellers visit this region as part of a Doi Inthanon day trip from Chiang Mai, which usually includes waterfalls, mountain viewpoints and small hill-tribe markets along the way.

(Read about the 25 things to do in and around Chiang Mai. And, how to visit an ethical elephant sanctuary while in Chiang Mai.)

Subgroups of the Karen Tribe in Thailand

The Karen tribes in Thailand are divided into four main sub-groups: White Karen, Kayan Lahwi, Black Karen, and Red Karen.

Most of these Karen tribes stick to agriculture for their livelihood. They sell their agricultural produce in the markets alongside the mountain roads.

It is while stopping by one such tribal market run by the Karen people that I got to meet Phen -the Karen lady. Yes! You could shop in the night markets of Chiang Mai too, however, these tribal markets run by the Karen people are a source of livelihood for these tribes.

Colourful markets run by the Karen people of Chiang Mai

Small roadside markets run by the Karen tribe in the hills of Chiang Mai often sell farm-fresh fruits, vegetables and handmade products grown in the surrounding forests and farms.

At one such stall, I noticed a heap of fruits that looked like mangoes with a pointed nose. They turned out to be Canistel fruit, a tropical delicacy found in Southeast Asia.

These markets also sell fruit wines, nuts, handmade woollen clothing and small handicrafts. The Karen women who run these stalls are remarkable — balancing farming, household work and small businesses with resilience.

(You may also want to read about the best food markets in Bangkok)

Occupations of the Karen Tribe in Northern Thailand

Farming remains the primary occupation of the Karen people living in the mountains around Chiang Mai and Doi Inthanon.

The Karen tribe is also known for its traditional weaving and handicraft skills, which form an important part of hill-tribe culture across northern Thailand.

Many Karen men work as artisans and craftsmen, producing woven textiles, clothing and handicrafts that are sold in local markets.

Their traditional fabrics often feature the tribe’s favourite colours — red, blue and white. Red symbolises bravery, white purity and sincerity, while blue represents honesty.

Traditional Clothing of the Karen People

Many Karen people continue to wear traditional clothing, though younger generations increasingly adopt modern western outfits.

Traditionally, Karen men wear a longyi (similar to the Indian lungi) along with a sleeveless shirt. Married women often wear a wrap-around sarong and sleeveless blouse, usually in darker shades.

Unmarried Karen women traditionally wear long white tunics — a style that is distinctive among several Karen communities.

Language of the Karen People

The Karen people traditionally speak their own languages rather than Thai, although many Karen communities in Chiang Mai have gradually picked up Thai words and phrases.

There are several dialects of the Karen language, but the three main language groups are S’gaw Karen, Western Pwo Karen, and Eastern Pwo Karen, with S’gaw Karen being the most widely spoken.

Visiting Karen Villages in Chiang Mai Responsibly

Many travellers visiting northern Thailand are curious about meeting hill tribes such as the Karen. While these communities have long welcomed visitors to their markets and villages, the subject of tourism — especially around the long-neck Kayan communities — often raises ethical questions.

Some travellers feel uncomfortable treating people’s homes and traditions as attractions, while others argue that tourism provides an important livelihood for these communities. Like many aspects of travel, the truth probably lies somewhere in between.

Personally, I find that visiting local markets, speaking to people directly, and learning about their everyday lives offers a far more meaningful experience than viewing communities as exhibits.

Responsible Cultural Experiences Around Chiang Mai

If you are visiting northern Thailand and would like to learn about hill communities, forests and local culture around Chiang Mai, there are a few well-curated tours that focus on nature, local markets and mountain landscapes rather than staged village visits.

Explore the mountains and hill villages of Doi Inthanon on a guided day tour from Chiang Mai

Visit waterfalls, local markets and nature trails in Doi Inthanon National Park

Discover Chiang Mai’s cultural landscapes and hill communities

The Long-Neck Kayan Women of the Karen Community

One of the most widely known subgroups of the Karen people are the Kayan Lahwi or Padaung, often referred to as the “long-neck Karen”.

These communities are largely found around Mae Hong Son province in northern Thailand, near the Myanmar border.

I did not tag along with our group to the village of this long-necked Karen tribe owing to some work, and also my varied views on visiting such a dwelling as part of tourism. I have documented information that the group shared with me, along with my thoughts on this traditional practice.

Traditions of The Long-Neck Karen Women

According to Kayan tradition, the more neck rings a woman wears, the more beautiful she is considered.

Girls begin wearing brass rings from the age of five or six. They start with a few coils around the neck, and additional rings are added gradually as they grow older.

Over time, the heavy coils press down the collarbone and shoulders, creating the visual illusion of an elongated neck.

Watching this tradition made me reflect deeply. Rings that measure beauty in weight and endurance — do women not deserve gentler markers of dignity?

Today, some women continue wearing the rings not purely as tradition but also because tourism provides an important source of income for their families

Reflections from Doi Inthanon

As we drove down the winding roads of Doi Inthanon, my mind kept returning to the children playing near the roadside stalls — children of the Karen people who grow up between two worlds, their ancestral homeland in Myanmar and their present lives in Thailand.

Travel often introduces us to landscapes and monuments. But sometimes it also reveals quiet human stories — like my brief friendship with Phen over candied fruit peels.

Stories of Inspiring Women Met Through Travel

I had shared my experience of meeting the Karen tribe in Chiang Mai on a few travel forums earlier, but strangely never wrote about it on this blog.

Perhaps some encounters take time before they find their way into words.

For a traveller like me, the best way to celebrate women’s strength is by remembering the remarkable women met along the road — women who quietly shape their worlds with resilience.

Bo Sang Umbrella Village near Chiang Mai.

You may also enjoy reading about the inspiring women artisans at the Bo Sang Umbrella Village near Chiang Mai

I hope you enjoyed reading about the Karen tribe and my unexpected interaction with Phen during my travels in northern Thailand.

Travel is often made memorable by such small local connections. If you too have a story of meeting remarkable women during your journeys, I would love to hear it.

Do share your story in the comments — your own little “candied fruit peel” from the road.

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